I made one thing very clear before my 40th birthday, I really, really didn’t want a party. We had almost started planning one, but I think I’m just over the whole full-on party scene. David decided to book a surprise trip instead.
Knowing how much I love books, reading and writing, he found a library in Admont, Austria, that looked like something out of Beauty and the Beast. Then he built our whole three-night weekend around taking me there. Just me and David, a spa hotel and some much needed time together.
He told me we were going to Austria about a week beforehand so I could pack the right things, but kept the exact destination a surprise. The library? I only found out when we arrived and there was a picture of it hanging above our bed. He really did good.
Getting to Admont and exploring by car
We drove down to London Stansted and flew into Linz Airport. I loved how straightforward the airports felt, and Linz airport was small. The people we met were lovely and down to earth.
We hired a car for the journey to Admont, which took us around an hour and twenty minutes. As soon as we reached the mountains, I was taken aback. Pictures hadn’t prepared me for how beautiful they were in real life. Genuinely like something out of a movie.
Having the hire car was an absolute win. We could take mountain drives and reach different hiking spots without being tied to one place.
Visit the fairytale library at Admont Abbey
We spent a whole afternoon exploring the museum, library, church and grounds at Admont Abbey. We wandered through the museum first, which reminded me a little of Liverpool’s World Museum, only much smaller.
Then came the library. It was so stunning. I was full of joy and amazement, although a large tour group made it harder to fully enjoy that first moment. I wanted to take it all in, and there were quite a few people to take it in around!
Even so, seeing the library David had planned the whole trip around was incredibly special. A library straight out of a fairytale, and I was actually standing in it. 20 mins later we went back and the library was almost empty.
👆 Watch my Admont Abbey Library video
Explore the church and grounds too
Afterwards, we went into the church, where David decided to add his own contribution to the atmosphere. Thinking we were alone, he let out a huge fart. It echoed all over the church. We turned around to discover a whole family laughing at us.
So yes. Beautiful church. Excellent acoustics. Thoroughly tested by David.
📷 Our church visit on Instagram, the incident is in the carousel
Enjoy a little spa time at Hotel Spirodom
We stayed at Hotel Spirodom, with views of the Austrian Alps that were absolutely insane. One morning started straight in the spa, and the views from the pool area were mind-blowing.
I took my book with every intention of reading. I hardly touched it. We ended up in the sauna and steam room, then raced each other up and down the pool like kids. Apparently it was a quiet weekend, because we pretty much had the place to ourselves.
Just me and David. No rushing, no jobs waiting to be done. A chance to switch off my brain and close the million tabs usually running in it. We needed that time together, and it was utter bliss.
Go hiking near Johnsbach in Gesäuse National Park
On our first evening, after arriving in the dark and quickly freshening up, we found a local bar (Centrum) run by Kris. He made us feel so welcome, with local beer, moonshine (that blew both our heads off) and plenty of advice about where to explore.
At one point, he brought out a huge book of Austrian attractions that looked like it had been around since the 90s. He flicked through it and pointed us towards Gesäuse National Park. We had such a good evening, but managed to get back before midnight so we wouldn’t ruin the next day. Quite responsible of us, really.
Following his recommendation, we ended up around Johnsbach. There were so many trails to choose from, including a walk through pastures and into the mountains that I’d love to do properly next time.
We started on a stepped path around the side of a mountain. That bit was good for the thighs. We then doubled back and took an easier hiking path.
At one point, I stopped and looked up at the white, rocky mountains. They were so beautiful I think I could have cried. I didn’t! But I could have.
Further along, another open spot gave us a view right across the valley. The scenery was some of the most beautiful I’ve ever seen. We were out for around five hours altogether, and by the end we were knackered and hungry.
Looking back, I wish we’d done the full-day walk. Although, ask my legs at the time and they might have had a different opinion. I would do that day all over again.
👆 Watch the mountain scenery from our Austria trip
Food, drinks and an emergency cash run
Back at the start of the trail, we stopped at a pub restaurant, named Gasthof zum Donner. I had frankfurters and David had schnitzel, and we got chatting to two American lads who were hiking through Austria.
They’d found themselves in a bit of a pickle. Their next overnight stop was a mountain hut that required cash, and they only had bank cards. They were PhD research students from Washington, if I remember rightly.
We had the car, so we drove them around half an hour to the nearest cash machine, took them back and dropped them another couple of miles up the road to help them catch up with their hike. They were so thankful. It was an unexpected little detour, but I’m glad we were able to help especially as we got to see more of Johnsbach, an unexpected little gem!
My practical tips for a weekend in Admont
Comfort was very much the dress code during our stay. I packed heels for meals out and never even took them out of my case.
Bring another pair of comfortable trainers or walking shoes. My only pair started rubbing after the first day. Crocs or sliders for after all that walking would have been lovely too.
If a tour group’s in the library, go to the church and come back later. You will enjoy it so much more with less tourists around.
I’d also carry cash. We needed it in several places in the smaller towns and villages, while we could use cards at the main hotels. Those hikers definitely weren’t the only ones who could have been caught out.
The hire car gave us the freedom to explore further and, apparently, provide an emergency cash-machine service. Next time, I’d allow longer than a weekend for more walking and sightseeing.
Would I go back to Admont? Absolutely.
Admont was such a pretty, quiet little place. Some locals we spoke to said they didn’t see many young couples staying there, rather than passing through on hiking trips, until the library started getting attention on TikTok. Young couples. I’ll take that on my 40th birthday, thank you very much.
The houses looked just as I’d imagined, the people we met made a real effort to speak English with us, and the scenery was just jaw droppingly stunning. Austria has shot straight to the top of my favourite places I’ve ever been.
My actual birthday was Monday, our travel home day. Honestly, I was grateful for that. As much as I loved being away, I missed my little people so much. We’re a close knit family, and four days felt a long time without them.
I was excited to go home because I wanted to see them. If they’d been with us, I’d have wanted to stay longer. There will definitely be another trip: at least a week, more hiking, more sightseeing and the kids coming along for the adventure. I think they’d love exploring those mountains with us.
David planned a weekend around a library and gave me one of my favourite trips ever. Time together, time to breathe, and views I’m still thinking about.
Austria really does have my heart.
